These homely underwater creatures, resembling giant Mr. Potatoheads with flippers, have inspired a fierce loyalty from the people of Crystal River and the whole of Citrus County, located about 90 miles north of Tampa. As many as 300 of the grayish-brown walrus-like West Indian manatees (also known as Florida manatees) vacation in the area's warm waters every winter, making Crystal River the site of one of the largest concentrations of these endangered sea mammals in the world.

Encountering the likes of the Manatee Highway, the Manatee Bowling Alley, and the Manatee Medical Center, even first-time visitors to the area will quickly pick up on the manatee love-fest that has invaded the town. Here, people have come to think of manatees as friends. One of Crystal River's slogans, plastered on billboards, and elsewhere, is "Crystal River: Where Man and Manatee Play."

And play they do. Humans have gotten to know the chubby herbivores on their own turf, by swimming with them in the warm springs. (The river remains at a constant 72 degrees throughout the year.) That's right, Crystal River is the only place in the world where divers and snorkelers are welcome to swim with manatees in a dedicated sanctuary, run by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. So if you're vacationing in the Fort Myers/Southwest Coast area, plan to set aside a day to cavort with these gentle creatures.

Probably the best way to maximize this one-of-a-kind experience is to sign up for one of several guided manatee sightseeing tours offered by various dive shops in the area. Many of the shops offer manatee awareness courses that cover everything from the animals' habitat, genealogy, and social behavior to safe ways to interact with them; snorkeling and/or diving equipment, and boat rides to the sanctuary are often included in the tour price, as well.

The best time of year to mingle with the manatees is from December through February, when numbers reach their highest. February is an especially good month to visit Crystal River because that's when the annual two-day Manatee Festival is held. The event, which provides visitors with an educational look at manatees, includes seafood, fine arts, and crafts areas, as well as musical entertainment, golf tournaments and children's events. (For details, contact the Nature Coast Chamber of Commerce at 352-795-3149.)

However, don't fret if your travels take you to Crystal River during off-season, as some manatees are consummate homebodies and choose not to head north for the summer. There's even a plus side to taking the plunge after prime season: Crowds diminish (so you won't be rubbing shoulders with human neighbors), prices decrease, and the water is often clearer.

Getting Up Close and Personal
with the Pachyderms of the Sea

If you have never attended an underwater cocktail party with manatees, you may have cause to chuckle into your snorkel or scuba regulator when you get a fish-eye view of the funny-looking creatures: They have small pinheads and snouts with stiff whiskers, two forelimbs on large blimp-like bodies, and beaver-like tails. They are typically 10 to 13 feet in size and weigh anywhere from 800 to 3,000 pounds. Though many people think they resemble walruses, manatees' closest living relatives are elephants. The two species share thick, wrinkled skin, toenails, teeth, and eyelids.

One thing they don't share is an affinity for peanuts. Manatees graze on grass and consume marine and freshwater plants, which is why they are often referred to as "sea cows." When they're not feeding, they are usually resting. About every 10 or 15 minutes, manatees swim to the surface for air. (In a pinch, these sea mammals can hold their breath for as long as 20 minutes.)

And as visitors to the manatee sanctuary will quickly learn, these guys like to play. Without hesitation, the friendly, trusting creatures freely approach the outsiders bogged down with tanks, masks, and cameras. Like other pets, manatees beg to have their tummies scratched and rubbed, and they genuinely seem to enjoy the attention bestowed on them by their human friends. But when they've had enough contact with people, the manatees retreat to some far-off corner where human interlopers cannot find them.

Keeping the Manatees Safe and Sound

Unfortunately for the manatees, life is not always idyllic. Their biggest problem is humankind. Boat collisions are the main cause of death for the slow-moving manatees. Other human hindrances that can endanger their lives include pesticides and other pollution, nets and traps that entangle the manatees, and fish hooks and lines, which they ingest.

In an effort to keep the endangered manatees safe and sound when people come a callin', dive-shop guides strictly enforce a long list of rules for people to follow when interacting with the animals. For example, swimmers are warned to look but not touch the animals. Pursuing or chasing them while swimming, diving, snorkeling, or operating a boat is strictly forbidden, as is feeding them.

Thankfully, Citrus County's desire to protect its favorite mascot is more than just lip service: In 1996, the county enacted the Manatee Protection Plan, which identifies specific manatee zones where people in boats must abide by specific speed zones. Posted signs include Idle Speed, Slow Speed, Caution Area, and No Entry, Manatee Refuge.

While many people believe that these kinds of efforts can make a difference, manatees are not out of the proverbial woods just yet. As most swimmers will notice, the majority of manatees in this region have some sort of scarring from boats' propellers.

Fortunately, just 10 miles south of Crystal River, there is a safe haven for injured manatees and other animals: Homosassa Springs State Wildlife Park, run by the Department of Environmental Protection's Parks and Recreation division. (see sidebar for more information). Home to native Florida wildlife, the park features a manatee rehabilitation center that is dedicated to healing the injured mammals. (All manatees residing here are either captive-born or recovered from the wild because of illness or injury.) The floating observatory, a partially submerged bi-level structure, allows visitors to view manatees and thousands of fresh- and saltwater fish. This is one of the only places in the world where endangered manatees can be observed at close range every single day of the year.

One of the primary purposes of the wildlife park and the manatee sanctuary in Crystal River is to educate and promote public awareness. The hope is that by interacting with these lovable "sea cows," people will begin to treat them with the same respect and affection they would bestow on a best friend.•